Brian's Garden

Rooting Hoyas

2006-12-26T12:33:00.000-06:00

Just wondering how sensitive the roots are of a hoya. A stick/ stand thinger was put in my pot and some of the roots were ripped- is this bad?? Also where mine is sitting there is a fair amount of cold that comes in - should I be moving it to a warmer area? Some of the leaves are yellowing.....

If only a few roots were ripped, it should not harm the plant. New roots will form near the ends of the broken off roots. Let the soil become moderately dry before watering the plant thoroughly when watering. Hoya plants will do fine with night temperatures in the 60's and daytime temperatures ten degrees or so warmer. So, if the temperature is lower than 60 degrees, you should move the plant to a warmer location.

Web Garden Guide linked me!

2006-12-26T12:14:00.000-06:00

I got an email from WebGardenGuide.com, and they linked to my site! Check them out!

Pickle Cactus

2003-12-18T22:27:00.000-06:00

Common Name: Pickle Cactus

Botanical Name: Delosperma pruinosum, or D. echinatum

Plant Family: Mesembryanthemaceae

The 'Pickle Cactus', Delosperma pruinosum is not a true cactus as the common name suggests, but rather a succulent plant. The common name is due to the fact the fat, juicy, light-green, ovate-hemispherical shaped leaves are covered with bristly papillae (soft pimplelike or nipplelike lumps) which give them the appearance of a pickle or cucumber. The species name pruinosum means 'hoary' or 'frost like' in appearance. The plant is dense, bushy, many branched and of trailing or cascading habit. The solitary (one per stem, rather than in a cluster) insignificant flowers are yellow or creamy-white in color. There is some confusion as to which family the pickle cactus actually belongs to. Some botanists list it under the Mesembryanthemaceae family, others place it under the Aizoaceae family. Its place of origin is Cape Province, South Africa.

CULTURE

These are not difficult plants to care for if we remember they are succulent plants and can go for months without water. Over-watering is generally the main cause of plant death. So, knowing this, it would be wise to use a clay pot rather than a plastic pot for potting up the plant. As for all succulents, using a shallow container is much beter than using a deep one, and of course, the containers must have good drainage holes.

The medium (soil) must be one that drains well - it must be porous or have lots of air spaces in it. Commercial potting soils prepared for cacti and succulents may be used, or, one can be made up using one part sandy soil, one part peat, one part coarse sand and one part of either small gravel with stones at least 1/8 inch in diameter or perlite. A rich soil is not recommended because too much food, and water for that matter, can cause the plant to become overgrown and distorted. The plant should only be fertilized if new growth appears smaller than normal. Feed the plant once or twice a year during its active growing period using a dilute cactus formulated fertilizer such as 'Sudbury Cactus Juice 1-7-6' or 'SCHULTZ Cactus Plus 2-7-7', being sure to follow directions on the containers lables. Remember that under-feeding a plant is far less harmful to the plant than over-feeding it.

The 'Pickle Cactus' needs a bright, sunny, south windowsill. Without adequate light the stems will become elongated and misshapen. During the hottest part of summer, the plant may need to be moved back a bit from the windowpane if it is too close, to prevent scorching of the leaves.

Temperature is an important factor in growing a perfect specimen. The plant can tolerate high temperatures (70 - 90°F) during the summer months, but should be given cool winter temperatures of 40-55°F during its dormant period. Fresh air should be provided to the plant whenever possible - opening a window in the summer, for example. The plant will thrive in rooms with very low humidity. This is not to say the plant should not be given a good shower now and again, to remove any dust and debris or pesky insect that it may collect. Use clean tepid water to wash and refresh the plant.

During the active growing period, water the plant when the soils surface becomes dry. During the plants dormancy (resting period), allow the soil to dry before watering the plant. With the cool temperatures during the resting period, the plant may only need to be watered once every month or two.

New plants can be propagated (started) from tip cuttings taken in late spring or summer. The cut surface should be allowed to callous over before the cutting is inserted in a well-drained rooting medium. This is done by placing the cutting(s) in a warm, dry location out of direct sun, for a few days. The larger the cutting, the longer it will take to callous over (become dry and thicken over with a hard crust), as much as two or three weeks. The rooting medium should be kept just barely moist and the container should not be covered with polythene or glass. If the medium can be kept close to 70°F, the cutting(s) will root much quicker.

Transporting Ficus

2003-02-14T22:42:00.000-06:00

I am moving to Tulsa, OK from New Jersey during the first 2 weeks of March, 2003. I have two Ficus trees that I want to take with me, they are approximately 6 years old and have always done well. What is the best way to protect them on their 2+ day journey west? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Fig Tree - *Ficus benjamina*

Your plants should be carefully wrapped to protect them from extreme temperatures, and the possibility of physical damages. I do not know what size your trees are, but if they are not too large, they can be wrapped with large paper sleve fan-shaped wrappers which pull up over the pot and plant. You may be able to purchase a couple of these wrappers from a local florist, greenhouse or nursery in your area. The potting media should be moist before wrapping the trees to prevent them from drying out during the journey.

If these wrappers can not be found, they can be wrapped with any type of roll paper or poly plastic. These wrappers are necessary to protect the plants from cold temperatures and wind while they are being taken from the home to the vehicle and vice ver-sa. The plants should be taken indoors in the evening (left wrapped up) whenever you have to stay over-night, in case of extreme temperature changes out of doors. If temperatures are cold outside, the trees must be moved in a heated vehicle. The trees should not be left to sit outside for any length of time, as both cold temperatures or very hot temperatures (from the sun shining on the wrappers) can damage them. In other words, take them straight out to the vehicle and then straight into the building when arriving at your destinations.

If the trees are fairly wide, the branches can be carefully bent upwards, starting at the bottom of the tree and working upwards, and loosely tied together in the up-right position with several rounds of a soft material such as cloth that is cut in strips. (A soft material prevents the bark from being damaged). The tree is then easier to wrap and will not take up so much space. Depending on what type of vehicle you have for transporting the trees, another option is to place the trees in large boxes, if it is possible to find such boxes. If the trees are properly wrapped, it will not harm them if they are laid down (as long as nothing heavy is placed on top of them). If you think they may have to be laid down during the trip, it is advisable to stuff some cloth at the top of the pots and tie it in place, so that the soil will not spill out of the containers.

That is basically all there is to it. Handle the plants carefully and carry them by holding on to the pots, not the top part, as the roots may become dislodged or the branches damaged. I hope you and your trees have a pleasant journey to their new home.

When you arrive at your new home, the wrappers should be taken off of the trees immediately. Plants can not survive for very long periods of time without light. The next important step is to try and give them (as close as possible) the same growing conditions they had before their journey. These include light, temperature, and humidity. Don't be to despaired if the trees drop a few leaves. Moving a plant to a new location usually causes some stress on the plant, and it may take some time for it to re-adjust to its new surroundings.

Bird's Nest Fern

2003-02-14T22:26:00.000-06:00

Common Name: Bird's Nest Fern, Spleenwort, Shuttlecock

Botanical Name: Asplenium nidus

Plant Family: Aspleniaceae|

The Bird's Nest Fern, Asplenium nidus, is a tropical and sub-tropical plant which is native to the rain forests of Asia, Africa, India, Polynesia and Australia. In the wild, these largest of epiphytes live up in the crowns of trees. Their means of nourishment is from nutrients found in dust particles and rain which is collected in the plants deep, funnel-shaped rosette of leaves. The genus name Asplenium (Spleenwort) is derived from the Greek words 'a' meaning 'not', and 'splen', meaning 'spleen' and refers to the medicinal properties the plant is supposed to have. The specific epithet or species name 'nidus' means 'a nest', hence the common name Bird's Nest Fern. The Bird's Nest Fern belongs to the 'Aspleniaceae' family under the fern order 'Polypodiales'.

The leathery, tongue-like, glossy, pale green, wavy-edged fronds of this fern are borne in a tight rosette at the rhizome, forming a bowl-shaped clump with a fibrous center, which to many resembles a bird's nest, or at least a seemingly sheltered spot for a bird's nest. Each frond is entire or undivided and has a prominent, polished rib running down the center of the frond. The new fronds uncurl from the hairy, dark scaled crown of the rosette in typical fern manner. They are very soft and brittle when young and must not be handled. As the new fronds grow in, the older ones gradually die. Mature fronds can grow to 3 feet in length and 8 inches in width, and under ideal conditions, a plant can reach 4 to 6 feet in height, but, under normal home conditions the plant rarely exceeds 15 inches in height. The stems of each frond are stumpy and erect. Another commonly grown variety is Asplenium crispafolium, which has deeply ruffled fronds.

LIGHT

This fern must be grown in low to moderate, indirect light, such as that of a north window or lightly curtained east or west windows. The fern will grow successfully under 150 foot candles of artificial light. In direct sun, the fronds will scorch, and in deep shade, the plant will perish. Very pale colored fronds can be the direct result of too much sun or light.

TEMPERATURE

Provide warm temperatures for the fern, 60°F at night, and 70-80°F during the day. Fronds that turn yellow beginning at the base of the plant, or those that develop brown spots, are in most cases the result of the air being too warm. Even though this fern requires warm temperatures, it should in no way be located in front of hot air vents; nor should it be subjected to either hot or cold drafts.

WATERING

The potting media must be kept evenly moist at all times and never allowed to dry out. By providing the plant with a well-drained media, over-watering will not become a problem. A soggy soil will result in root and crown rot problems. Never allow the pot to sit in the excess drainage water. Water the plant from the top of the pot using tepid water and thoroughly soak the media (avoid getting the inner crown wet), and then do not water again until the surface of the media approaches dryness. In winter when the plant is dormant (resting period), or temperatures are on the cooler side, the plant should be watered more sparingly, but never allowed to dry out.

FERTILIZING THE PLANT

Providing the potting media has been prepared properly prior to planting the fern, the plant will only need to be fertilized twice during the growing season, once in early spring when growth resumes and once again in the summer. A good fertilizer for this fern is an organic fish emulsion fertilizer which has been diluted to one half the strength recommended by the manufacturer as labeled on the container. Over-fertilizing will result in frond tip and frond damage, as well as root damage of the plant. Ferns that have very pale colored fronds and very weak growth indicate a need for feeding.

HUMIDITY

If humid air can not be provided for this fern, problems will occur, it can not tolerate dry air. Humidity levels of 60% or higher should be maintained. Small Bird's Nest Fern plants are often grown in a terrarium where they thrive in the warm, humid environment. Increase levels of humidity around the plant by setting the pot on a pebble tray, filling pots with moist peat moss, setting out pans of water, grouping plants together, misting the plant, running small water fountains or installing a humidifier. If the fronds are turning yellow, developing brown tips, or there is no new growth, the most likely cause is dry air. Fronds that are dying back are usually the direct result of both dry air and dry media.

REPOTTING

Repot the fern, only if necessary, in a one size larger pot in spring. They do not require a very large pot because of their small root systems. A good soil mix consists of equal parts of packaged potting media, peat moss or leaf mold, and perlite or builder's sand. To each gallon of the above mix, 2 tablespoons of bonemeal should be added and thoroughly mixed in. Bonemeal is an excellent source of natural phosphorous which is needed by the plant for good root development ,as well as aiding in maintaining a neutral soil pH required by the plant.

PESTS

Insect pests most likely to attack Asplenium nidus are scale, aphids and mealybug. Careful monitoring of the plants leaves, especially on the under-sides, and regular dusting and washing of the leaves will keep these insects under control without having to resort to the use of pesticides. Washing them off, touching them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, or rubbing them off with a thumb-nail are means of control. Care must be taken when cleaning the leaves so as not to break off the brittle new fronds. Spore cases on the undersides of mature leaves should not be confused with scale insects. Keep the plant healthy and neat by cutting off dead fronds at any time of the year, and keep the base of the plant free from debris. Diseases to watch for include: anthracnose, blights, leaf blisters, leafspots and rusts.

Although the frond tips of the Bird's Nest Fern sometimes have a bit of a natural curl, severe curling of the fronds may be the result of cold drafts, over-watering, or too little heat. The Bird's Nest Fern thrives in warmth and humidity, like the typical conditions of those found in a tropical greenhouse.

Fishtail Palm

2003-02-11T22:42:00.000-06:00

I am wondering if you can help me identify a plant I bought. I bought it from Costco and it is somewhat like a plam, but it is not nearly as bushy and the leaves are different. As they open up they look more and more like they have been torn. The leaf, in total, is maybe 4-5 inches in diameter at the widest point, about 3/4 out the leaf. It is as if it has been cut into 3 sections, which seem to sit next to each other, yet they are cut, and the end of each section is a different length and appears to have been torn across the top of each section. The plant I have is a good six feet tall and has around 6 thicker main stems with lots more coming up. It is more of a taller nature than hanging out to the side. I am trying to find out it's name and light and watering requirements and would appreciate any help you could give me. Thanks.

Fishtail Palm - *Caryota mitis*

Is your plant a Fishtail Palm (Caryota mitis - or a different species of Caryota)? If it is, it requires bright, indirect light such as a curtain-filtered south window, or (at least 400 foot candles of artificial light).

The soil must be kept thoroughly moist, but never soggy wet or the stems could rot. Never let the pot sit in the drainage water. Water the plant as soon as the surface of the soil approaches dryness.

Give the plant nightime temperatures of 65 to 70 °F and daytime temperatures between 75 to 85°F.

Fertilize the plant with a balanced plant food (20-20-20 - for example) once a month durinjg the growing season (spring to fall). Never fertilize a plant while it is in the dormant period.

Repot the plant in spring if necessary (they prefer to be on the crowded side) in a one size larger pot. A good soil mix consists of 1 part loam, 1 part peat moss or leaf mold, and one part perlite. Add 2 tablespoons of bone meal to 1 gallon of the above mix for good root development. Most commercially packaged potting soils will also be fine.

Young plants can be propagated at any time of the year from the young suckers which develop at the base of the plant. Seeds can also be purchased to propagate new plants.

Keeping the air moist where the plant is located will help prevent spider mite infestations.

Norfolk Island Pine is Too Tall

2003-02-11T22:41:00.000-06:00

I have a Norfolk Pine house plant which has grown in a full grown tree, the tip is now touching the ceiling. What can I do? Can I propogate this by cutting the stem and placing in water to root or must it be air layered? Any advice from you in this matter would be appreciated. Thanks ...

**Norfolk Island Pine**

If your plant is a very nice specimen, the best thing you can do for it is to find it a new home. Perhaps a shopping mall, local business, or conservatory in your area that could handle a plant this size, and would willingly take care of it.

I am suggesting this because this is not an easy plant to propagate, and once the stem- tip is removed, the area just below the cut on the parent plant will send up multiple branches or leaders which will ruin the shape of the tree. If the stem-tip cutting fails to root, you will be no further ahead. Successful cuttings require a lot of rooting hormone (good quality stuff) and lots of luck. In fact, most producers today propagate new plants from seed. Side branch tips or shoots can not be used to make cuttings, as they will continue to grow sideways, never upwards.

If, however, you can not find a new home for the plant, it may be worth trying to root the tip. The cutting is made by slicing the stem off just below the first tier of branches (usually 5 or 7 branches in a tier). The prepared cutting should have the top leader, the one tier of branches and a bit of stem under them. Next, snip off two of the branches from the cutting. Dip the bottom of the cutting and the two wounded surfaces (where you cut off the two branches) in a good quality rooting hormone - be sure they are well coated with the hormone. They root best with room temperatures of 60 degrees F. Provide indirect light (a north or east window) until they have rooted. The cutting should be inserted in moist sand or any commercially packaged rooting medium made for the purpose of rooting cuttings. The tip cutting, pot and all should be placed into a large clear plastic bag with a few pin holes poked into the bag in order to keep the cutting and atmoshpere around the cutting moist. The rooting media must never be allowed to dry out, or remain too soggy.

As for rooting the cutting in water, this practice is not recommended for any type of plant, as those so called 'water roots' will just die once they are put into potting media in any case. The plant then has to concentrate on putting out brand new soil roots, if it has the strength left to do so. By the time the plant has developed those new soil roots, it could have been quite a size if it had been rooted in a proper rooting media in the first place. It is also very unlikely that a Norfolk Island pine cutting would develop roots in water.

Dracaena

2003-02-11T22:25:00.000-06:00

Common Name: Dracaena (Common names are applied to each species)

Botanical Name: Dracaena

Plant Family: Agavaceae (Agave Family)

These popular evergreen foliage plants are found growing at home in tropical countries such as Africa, Madagascar, Upper Guinea and the Canary Islands. The plants genus name, Dracaena, is derived from the Greek word drakaina which means a 'dragon' and alludes to the sap or juice of the stems of Dracaena draco, which was said to resemble dragon's blood. There is also mention that the plant may have been named after Sir Francis Drake.

Generally speaking, they are single stemmed, tree-like foliage plants with mostly narrow, sword-like leaves, green in color, or green with variously colored longitudinal stripes on each leaf. Young dracaena plants naturally have leaves located at the base of the plant, but as the plants mature, they lose their bottom leaves, thus giving the plant a palm-like appearance. It is for this reason they are often called 'False Palms'. Dracaenas rarely flower when they are grown as houseplants, but they do produce red, yellowish or greenish flowers in clusters or panicles when they do flower. Dracaena fragrans and Dracaena goldiana both have very fragrant flowers. These tropical plants can only be grown out of doors in very warm climates (zones 10, 11 etc.)

One commonly grown species of Dracaena which is distinctly different from all the others is D. godseffiana (= D. surculosa) (Gold-dust Dracaena). The species name surculosa means suckering. The plant does not have the long, narrow leaves growing at the top of the stem like that of a palm tree, but rather, a shrubby bush form with wiry stems, smallish 4 - 5 inch long, oval shaped, variegated leaves, irregularly spotted with creamy yellow. These slow growing plants seldom reach 3 feet high at maturity. If the plant blooms, the greenish-yellow fragrant flowers are followed by attractive red berries. Popular cultivars of Dracaena godseffiana include: D.g. 'Kelleri' - spotted creamy leaves; D.g. 'Florida Beauty' - leaves have more cream coloring than green, and D.g. 'Juanita'.

Perhaps the most popular houseplants grown today are the cultivars of Dracaena deremensis (meaning - of Derema, Tanzania). The species has solid green leaves and is not commonly grown. It flowers in panicles, each flower dark red outside, white inside. The plants vary in height, but usually average 3 to 4 feet. Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig' has 2 - 3 inch wide, shiny, dark green, strap-like leaves averaging 18 - 24 inches long. D.d. 'Warneckii' has 8 - 12 inch long green leaves with white longitudinal bands near the edge of the leaves. D.d. 'Lemon Lime' is similar to 'Warneckii', but has lime green stripes instead of white. D.d. 'Bausei' - two broad white bands running down the center of the green leaves. D.d. 'Rhoersii' - two thin white lines near the center of the leaf, pale green center, dark green edges. D.d. 'Jumbo' is a more compact form of 'Warneckii'. D.d. 'Yellow Stripe' - solid yellow leaf margins. D.d. 'White Stripe' - solid white leaf margins. D.d. 'Compacta' - a variety of 'Janet Craig' that somewhat resembles a bird nest-like plant, small leaves, approximately 1 foot tall. Other cultivars of Dracaena deremensis include: 'Calypso', 'Compacta Variegata', 'Gold Star', 'Green Stripe', 'Lisa', 'Michiko', 'Sandra Mastella', 'Warneckii Compacta', and 'Yellow Edge'.

Another popular species is Dracaena marginata (referring to the margined leaves) with common names of 'Madagascar Dragon Tree' or 'Red-edge Dracaena'. The plant has a slender trunk with 2 foot long narrow, arching, flat leaves that taper to a point. The predominant green leaves have a red-purple stripe running along the outer edge of the leaf. This dracaena truly resembles a palm tree as its bottom leaves mature and drop, leaving a tuff of green atop the slender stems. The plant can reach a height of 12 feet. Cultivars of Dracaena marginata include: D.m. 'Tricolor' - red leaf edges with white or yellowish stripes running along the green center, giving the plant an overall greenish-gold color; D.m. 'Colorama' - the red stripes on the leaf edges are much wider than those of 'Tricolor', giving the plant a distinct reddish color; others include: D.m. 'Santa Rosa'; D.m. 'Character'; D.m. 'Magenta' and D.m. 'Exotica'.

Another popular species is Dracaena fragrans (Fragrant Dracaena). The species name fragrans refers to the clusters of small, yellow, fragrant flowers. The leaves are solid green in color, graceful, 2 inches wide, 2 feet long, and resemble the leaves of a corn plant. 'Corn Plant' is the common name given to Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' (also named 'Massange's Dracaena, after M. de Massange). The dark green, 18 - 30 inch long, 2 - 3 inch wide, broad, recurved leaves have a very noticeable corn colored yellow stripe running down the center of each leaf. The plant averages 6 feet in height. Other cultivars of D. fragrans include: D.f. 'Lindenii' - green centered leaves with creamy-white leaf margins; D.f. 'Rothiana' - thick, leathery, 3 inch wide, 28 to 32 inch long, dark green leaves with a white margin; D.f. 'Victoria' - gold or yellow marginal stripes; D.f. 'Hawaiian Gold'; D.f. 'Character';and D.f. 'Trident'.

'Dragon Tree' is the common name for Dracaena draco. The species name draco means 'a dragon' and refers to the resin (dragon's blood) which exudes from the trunk. The silvery-green leaves which grow in a crowded rosette average 1 ½ to 2 feet long, 1 ½ inches wide, are sword-shaped, and red-edged if the plant is given enough light. It is hard to give an average houseplant height to a plant that will reach 60 feet high in its natural surroundings, but a 4 foot plant is a fairly common size.

For those with small living quarters, Dracaena sanderiana (Sander's dracaena or Ribbon plant) is a good choice. The species is named after Henry Sander, founder of Sander's Nursery. The soft, lax leaves average 7 - 10 inches long, 1 inch wide and are grey-green in color with broad white edges. The plant ranges from 2 - 5 feet in height, but its narrow leaves make it useful in small places. Dracaena sanderiana 'Borinquensis' has a broad white stripe running down the center of each leaf, flanked by a pair of narrow white stripes and green leaf edges.

Dracaena reflexa (formerly Pleomele reflexa) gets its species name from the reflexed flowers (inflorescence), meaning they are turned or bent backwards. The plant has weak stems and often requires a rigid support to keep it from sprawling. If warm temperatures and very moist, humid air can not be provided, the plant will drop its leaves and stop growing. The species is seldom found, but Dracaena reflexa 'Variegata' (known as 'Song of India') is fairly common. It has 6 inch long, yellow edged leaves, and can reach a height of 10 feet. It is not an easy plant to grow, and over-watering will cause the leaves to turn yellow and eventually drop. D. r. 'Angustifolia Honoriae' is another cultivar.

Dracaena goldieana (named after the Rev. Hugh Goldie, an American missionary in West Africa in the 19th century) has large, 10 inch long, light green leaves that are banded and marbled with dark green and silver-grey coloring. Dracaena hookeriana (named after Hooker), forms a trunk and has narrow green leaves that average 24 - 30 inches long. Both D.h. 'Latifolia' and D.h. 'Variegata' have variegated leaves.

One other commonly grown houseplant that is often called a dracaena, but is NOT, is Cordyline terminalis. The plant is often sold under the names Dracaena terminalis or Cordyline fruticosa. The plant has many common names including Ti plant, Polynesian Ti, Goodluck Plant and Red Dracaena. The genus name Cordyline is from the Greek word kordyle (a club) and refers to the large, fleshy roots of some species. The species name terminalis means 'terminal' and refers to the inflorescence (flowers). Cordyline also belongs to the Agavaceae family. There are two easy ways to differentiate between the genera, and that is by examining the roots and leaves of the plant. The genus Dracaena has smooth-surfaced, orange or deep yellow colored rootstocks (inner tissue) that do not creep, whereas, the genus Cordyline has knobbly, white colored, creeping rootstocks. Plants in the genus Cordyline have leaf petioles (stalks on the leaf that joins the leaf to the stem), like the leaves of an African violet, whereas, the leaves of plants in the Dracaena genus do not have leaf petioles - like a spider plant leaf, for example.

Cordyline terminalis (Ti Plant) has 1 foot long, plain green leaves. It is the leaves of this plant that are used in making the famous 'hula skirts' in Hawaii. The plant often grows 6 to 8 feet tall. There are many cultivars of C. terminalis, which have very brightly colored leaves. Popular ones include: C.t. 'Firebrand' - bronzy colored; C.t. 'Amabilis' - green, rose and white; C.t. 'Prince Albert' - green and red; C.t. 'Baptistii' - striped with green, yellow and pink; C.t 'Red-edge' - green leaves streaked with red; C.t. 'Tricolor' - 1 foot long leaves blotched with cream, pink and red; C.t. 'Kiwi' - stripes of light green, dark green, cream and pink; C.t. 'Bicolor' - pink and green leaves. Others: 'Baby Doll', 'Baby Pink', 'Bangkok Gold', 'Black Magic', 'Bolero', 'Bronze', 'Calypso Queen', 'Cameroon', 'Eugene Andre', 'Global', 'Kilimanjaro', 'Nagi', 'Purple', 'Red', 'Red Emerald', 'Red Sister', 'Red Star', 'Rojo' (red), 'Rosebud', 'Schubertii', 'Tango', 'Tequesta', 'Tiffany', 'White Baby Doll' and 'Xerox'.

Other species of Cordyline are C.stricta (also called C. congesta) - a slender stemmed plant with narrow (1- 1 ½ in. wide) green leaves, averaging 16 - 30 inches in length - the plant often producing panicles of light blue flowers. Mature plants can reach 10 feet in height. C. australis (Grass Palm, Cabbage Plant) - green, narrow, arching leaves, 1 ¼ inches wide, 20 - 30 inches long, grow in a rosette about the trunk of the plant. C. australis 'Veitchii' - both the leaf base and mid-rib of each leaf is bright red. C. indivisa - 2 - 4 inch wide, 4 foot long, thick, leathery leaves with orange colored veins and mid-rid, and C. indivisa 'Cuprea' which has coppery-red leaves.

CULTURAL REQUIREMENTS

The cultural requirements of both genera are basically the same. Both need warmth and high humidity, but it is essential that Cordyline be provided with very high humidity - at least 60%. Dracaena godseffiana can withstand drier air and lower winter temperatures than all the others. Dracaena marginata, Dracaena draco and Cordyline australis are relatively easy to care for in that they will grow in dimmer light and can withstand somewhat cooler winter temperatures.

LIGHT

Provide a location with bright, indirect light, such as an east or west window, or a curtain-filtered south window. Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii' does well in low light levels of 100 to 150 foot candles - in direct sunlight its leaves will scorch (as will most dracaena). D. fragrans will survive in low light (50 foot candles), but flourishes in filtered sunlight - in direct sun its leaves will turn brown and dry out. D. d. 'Janet Craig' grows best in filtered sunlight. A lack of magnesium in the soil coupled with low light can result in yellow spotting on the leaves of 'Janet Craig' dracaena. To rectify the problem, soak the potting soil with a solution of water and Epsom salts (1 tablespoon of salt to a gallon of water) and move it immediately to a brighter location. D. terminalis must have bright light. In general, if only artificial light can be provided (no windows), ensure that dracaena species receive at least 400 foot candles of light for 8 to 12 hours daily. Cordyline terminalis can be given 4 to 6 hours of direct sun daily to maintain its rich colors, or otherwise, it must be provided with at least 800 foot candles of artificial light for at least 12 hours per day. Plants that are receiving too much direct sun will often develop dry, bleached patches on the leaves. Brown leaf tips and edges can be a result of too little light.

TEMPERATURE

Both genera need warmth. Night temperatures of 65 - 70° F and daytime temperatures of 75 to 85° F are ideal. Those that will tolerate a bit cooler temperatures have been previously mentioned. Leaves will become soft and curled and develop brown edges if temperatures are too cold. Consistently cold temperatures can cause stem and root rot and death of the plant, especially if the plant is being over-watered.

WATERING

It is important to keep the potting media of most species moist at all times. Thoroughly soak the media when watering the plant by watering from the top of the pot until water runs out of the drainage holes in the pot. Use tepid, fluoride free water. This method of watering leaches out excess salts that can build up in the soil and harm the plants roots and leaves. Never let the pot sit in the excess drainage water - soggy wet soil can cause root rot and other problems. The plant should not be watered again until the surface of the soil feels dry to the touch. A soil that is constantly wet on the surface is an indication that the plant is being over-watered. On the other hand, it is very important that the soil-ball does not dry out completely - this is fatal to some species. Symptoms of dryness at the roots include: brown tips and yellow edges on the leaves; brown, crisp spots on the foliage; wilting leaves, and lower leaves that dry up and fall off.

Over-watering associated with cold temperatures is a main cause of plant death. The easiest way to prevent over-watering is to ensure the plant is potted in a well-drained media. Soft, dark brown spots or patches on the leaves; curling and falling leaves; several leaves turning yellow at the same time and falling; wilting leaves, and rotting stems and leaves are symptoms of over-watering. A plant that is growing very slowly or is not growing at all during the growing season (not the dormant period) is often suffering from over-watering or water-logged soil. One species that should be allowed to become quite dry before watering is D. fragrans. If it is over-watered, the canes are likely to rot. It should be noted that water with high levels of fluoride can cause tip burn on Dracaena leaves. Adding ground limestone (calcium) to the media raises the soils pH (should be near 6.5 - 7.0) which reduces tip burn caused by fluoride build up in the media.

HUMIDITY

Provide Dracaena spp. and Cordyline spp. with a humid environment. Misting, pebble trays with water, moist sphagnum moss placed around the pot, grouping plants together, or installing a humidifier are means of providing a humid environment for these plants. The usual symptoms caused by dry air are leaves with brown tips and yellow edges. Cold and hot drafts produce similar effects, as does under-watering, or leaf tips touching cold window panes. Dracaena draco and Dracaena godseffiana will tolerate drier air.

MEDIA AND FEEDING

Any general purpose potting media is fine, as long as it drains freely. It may be necessary to add some perlite to the media to improve drainage. If the media does not have any fertilizer added to it, a good practice is to add a tablespoonful of ground limestone, 2 tablespoons of bonemeal and 2 teaspoons of 5-10-5 fertilizer to a gallon of the media, and thoroughly mix it in.

Repotting is generally only required every 2 years, but if the plant is overcrowded or pot-bound, it should be repotted into a one size larger container as soon as the condition occurs. They can be repotted at any time of the year.

Feed Dracaena plants once every 5 or 6 months, and Cordyline once every 3 or 4 months with any well-balanced plant food (examples: 15-30-15, 20-20-20-, 5-10-5). (The time given is only on average. If the plant is doing fine, do not feed it. If the plant appears to be growing slowly, the new leaves appear smaller than usual, or the plant is rather pale in color, it may need some fertilizer a bit sooner. There is never a set time for fertilizing or watering a plant - it should be fertilized or watered when it needs it). Follow the instructions on the fertilizer labels carefully, and if anything, cut back a bit. Over-fertilizing a plant does far greater damage than under-fertilizing it. Never fertilize a plant when the soil is on the dry side, or while the plant is dormant. It is usually a good practice to resist feeding a newly purchased plant for several months, as most plants have been adequately fertilized before leaving the greenhouse or nursery.

GROOMING

Keep the leaves clean on your houseplants. Use a feather duster to remove dust, or wash the plants with a mild detergent and water solution. Rinse the leaves with tepid water. Regular cleaning not only keeps the plant healthy, but also helps prevent insects from getting a foothold. The main ones to watch for are spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, and thrips. The best natural control is maintaining a humid environment and providing sanitary conditions. If chemicals are required for insect control, use those that are registered for use on dracaena plants. Most garden supply centers, shopping malls and hardware stores handle these products. Watch for Leaf spot disease and Anthracnose on some species, and stem or root rot on all species. Remove dead leaves and trim off brown or dead leaf edges and tips with a pair of sharp scissors. Cut back into the healthy leaf tissue when trimming the leaf and follow the natural contour of the leaf.

PROPAGATION

Both genera can be propagated from stem-tip, stem, or cane cuttings, and air-layering. If basal shoots are produced at the base of a plant, these can also be used to propagate new plants. D. reflexa can be propagated by division. For full instructions on how to air-layer a plant, see PROPAGATION PART 2. Rooting a stem-tip cutting is almost the same as air-layering a plant, the only difference is that the stem-tip (usually the top foot or so with larger plants) is cut completely off the top of the plant. Then, 4 inches of leaves are stripped off the bottom end of the stem-tip cutting, and the bottom end of the cutting is then inserted in a moist rooting medium like sand or vermiculite until roots have formed. The cutting is kept moist, warm and out of direct sunlight. Once it is well rooted, it is carefully taken out of the rooting media and potted up in a well-drained potting media. Cane cuttings are usually made after a plant has been air-layered, or after the stem-tip has been removed to make a cutting. A portion of stem can be cut off the top part of the original stem (after the stem-tip has been removed) to make the cane cuttings. The stub, or cane of the original plant (the part that remains in the pot) will put out new shoots directly below the cut (usually several shoots) and continue to grow. The piece of remaining cane is then stripped of all leaves and cut into pieces about 4 to 6 inches long. These pieces are then laid horizontally on top of a moist rooting medium and half buried (you will see ½ inch of a 1 inch thick cane above the media after it is buried, for example). The pieces should be laid on the rooting media so that as many nodes (little green bumps on the cane) as possible are located on the top half of the cane, exposed to the light. The media must be kept moist, not wet. Once the little shoots are two inches tall, they are cut off the piece of cane (with a little piece of the old cane still attached) and inserted in a rooting media to form their own roots. Once they are well rooted, they are repotted in a well-drained potting media. Alternatively, stand a 10 inch piece of the cane or stem vertically in moist media and start a Ti Tree.

A good site to find nursery information on the plants listed in this article as well as many other is: www.fnga.org/locator/SearchPlants.asp.

Peace Lily Won't Bloom

2003-02-08T22:43:00.000-06:00

We are having a problem with our peace lilies budding, but they do not bloom. They turn brown and dry up. Can you tell me what we should do? Thanks for your help!

**Peace Lily**

'Bud blast' is the term used when flower buds on any flowering plant fail to open, and drop off the plant. There can be one, or a combination of factors which leads to this plant problem. Hopefully you will be able to diagnose and solve the problem with your peace lily from the following list of conditions which most commonly cause the loss of flower buds on houseplants.

Dry air or too little humidity - increase the humidity levels in the air around your plant by misting the plant, providing a pebble tray under the potted plant, and be sure the plant is not located to close to hot or cold drafts. (Heat registers, open windows or doors, etc.) An occasional tepid shower in the shower is always beneficial to a plant as it removes dust, grime and insects.

Underwatering can cause bud drop - It is critical that peace lilies have a constantly moist soil, especially while they are flowering. Water the plant as soon as the soils surface approaches dryness. Use tepid water and water the plant thoroughly by pouring water unto the soils surface until the excess water runs freely out of the pots drainage holes. Do not let the pot sit in the excess water, however, as too much water (overwatering) can also cause bud drop, as well as other problems.

Too little light - the plant may have to be moved to a brighter location or, supplied with artificial lighting, if necessary. Although peace lilies can survive in rather low light conditions, they must have enough light to produce the energy required by the plant to initiate flower buds and sustain those flowers. If there is only enough light available to keep the plant alive, they will abort the flower buds.

Temperatures are too cold or too hot - most flowering plants fail to flower properly under these conditions. Peace lilies enjoy night temperatures near 65 degrees F and daytime highs of 72 - 75 degrees F.

Insects - check the plant over carefully for those hard to see insects, such as spider mites, which maybe feeding on the flowers buds.

Natural gas which is used for heating or cooking can cause bud blast ( buds brown, dry up and fall off) if the appliances are not properly vented to the outside. Have the air checked in the home for toxic gases, and correct venting problems, if necessary.

Brown Dieffenbachia Leaves

2002-12-05T22:39:00.000-06:00

My Dieffenbachia is turning brown and losing leaves. What am I doing wrong?

**Dieffenbachia**

If we have some knowledge of where a house plant originates, we can then try and duplicate those conditions in our home, thus providing an environment favourable to the plants health. 'Dieffenbachia' or Dumbcane, as it is commonly called, is native to tropical America (Costa Rica and Colombia, for example) as well as the West Indies. Dieffenbachia is named in honour of Herr J. F. Dieffenbach, a German botanist who supervised the imperial gardens at Schonbrunn Castle in Vienna in the 19th century. The common names of the plant, 'Dumbcane' and sometimes 'Mother-in-laws-Tongue', are derived from the effects the toxic or poisonous sap of the plant has on a person's mouth and throat if it should be eaten or chewed. The sap contains calcium oxolate crystals which causes swelling and pain of the mouth and throat, as well as speechlessness in many cases. It is for this reason, very important to keep the plant out of reach of children and pets, and to wash the hands after handling the plant. Dieffenbachia belongs to the Arum family, 'Araceae'.

Dieffenbachia plants are easily recognized by their large, brittle, oblong or ovate, often drooping, variegated leaves. The green leaves are either spotted, blotched, or streaked with cream, white, yellow, gold, silver, or a combination of these colors. Depending on the species or cultivar, the leaf size ranges from 8 inches long to over 2 feet long. If the leaves should be bruised or cracked, which they do very easily, they often give off a skunk-like odor. Be careful when handling or moving the plants so as not to damage the leaves. The leafstalks sheath at the base of the plant and encircle the normally non- branching stems (like a tree, not a shrub). Although some plants can reach a height of 6 feet or higher, they usually end up looking like a palm tree by this time due to the fact the bottom leaves drop off the plant as they mature. This is a good time to rejuvenate the plant, and perhaps start a few more plants using various methods of propagation to do so. The top part of the plant can be air-layered, and once it has rooted and been removed from the plant, the stem can be cut back to 4 - 6 inches from the pots rim to stimulate new growth from the short stub. The remainder of the stem can then be used to make cane cuttings. To make cane cuttings, cut the bare stem into 4 - 6 inch long pieces, being sure each piece has at least one node (a small green swelling on the cane). Lay the pieces of cane horizontally in moist sand or any rooting medium with the majority of the nodes facing upwards, and bury only the lower half of the cane in the media. Once the new shoots reach approximately 2 inches high, cut them from the cane with a small piece of the cane attached, and root these shoots in moist sand. Once rooted, they can be potted up in 3 or 4 inch pots in proper compost or soil. Alternatively, insert the pieces of cane upright (vertically) in the moist sand. Bury the bottom 1/3 of the cane, being sure to bury the end which was the lower part of the stem. This is the method used to produce a 'Ti-plant'.

**Dieffenbachia**

Because these are tropical plants, they require a warm, humid environment to succeed. Daytime temperatures of 75 - 85 degrees F, and nightime temperatures of 65 degrees F (no lower) are ideal. If temperatures are too cold or the plant is subjected to cold drafts, the leaves will either develop brown edges, turn completely brown and drop, or the lower leaves will turn yellow and wilt. Extreme or fluctuating temperatures can kill some delicate varieties. Along with warm temperatures, a high level of humidity should be maintained. If the air is too dry, the young leaves will often fall. Place damp peat moss around the pot, use pebble trays, or set basins of water near heat registers to increase humidity levels around the plant. Mist the leaves in the morning hours of each day if humidity levels are very low. Wash the leaves at least once a month with warm, soapy water to clean them and also remove any insects which may be harbouring on the plant. Rinse with clean water. Never use leaf shine products on the leafs.

**Dieffenbachia camille**

Provide 400 foot candles of light for Dieffenbachia plants. This is a bright, indirect light, such as a curtain-filtered south window. Direct sun shine can bleach or fade the leaf coloring, whereas, too dim a light will either cause the plant to lose its variegated colors and revert back to green, or, the lower leaves could dry up and fall.

**Dieffenbachia compacta**

Watering can be a touchy subject with this plant. While the plant is actively growing, keep the soil moist to moderately dry. The media must never be soggy wet, as overwatering will cause the lower leaves to drop. In winter, or the dormant period, the plant will need to be watered more sparingly, especially if room temperatures are on the cool side. The plant is very susceptible to crown and stem rot disease when a combination of overwatering and low temperatures co-exist. If the soil is allowed to dry out, the leaves will develop brown edges.

**Dieffenbachia tiki**

Dieffenbachia generally require fertilizing only every 2 or 3 months while they are actively growing. Use a plant food such as 5-10-5 diluted to 1/2 the strength recommended on the fertilizer containers label. Never feed the plant while it is dormant.

The most common pests of Dieffenbachia include mealybugs, aphids, red spider mite and scale. A humid atmosphere helps in detering these insects. If an insecticide is needed for control of a heavy infestation, choose one that is recommended for use on Dieffenbachia as listed on the containers label. These insecticides can be found at most garden centers or hardware stores. Diseases common to the plant are leaf spot, stem, crown and root rot, anthracnose and Dasheen mosaic virus.

**Dieffenbachia Tropic Breeze**

The genus 'Dieffenbachia' contains over 12 species, as well as over 50 introduced cultivars. A few of the more common species include: D. amoena - dark green to blue- green leaves feathered with white; D. bausei - yellowish-green leaves with green margins and white spots (a hybrid plant); D. bowmannii - large green leaves with white spots; D. chelsonii - deep, satiny green leaves marked with gray feathering; D. exotica (arvida) - a good smaller plant for the home, dull green leaves variegated with creamy white; D. fournieri - almost black-green leaves with white spots; D. fosteri - green leaves, a short dwarf variety; D. hoffmannii - velvety green leaves blotched with cream or white and prominent white mid-ribs (the main vein of the leaf); D. imperialis - bright green leaves with soft yellow blotches; D. leonii - green margined velvety yellow leaves; D. longispatha - light midribs, dark green leaves; D. memoria-corsii - gray colored leaves with ivory spots and green veins; D. oerstedii - dark green leaves with prominent white mid-ribs; D. parlatorei - shiny, deep green leaves; D. picta - green leaves blotched with white; D. picta barraquiniana - green spotted white leaves with prominent white center veins; D. picta jenmannii - green leaves with white veins in a herringbone pattern; D. picta superba - green leaves spotted or blotched with cream, a very compact form; D. sequine liturata - velvety green leaves with white center veins; D. splendens (hybrid) - bronzy-green velvety leaves spotted with white and white mid-ribs.

**Dieffenbachia Tropic Marianne**

A few of the many cultivars include: 'Alix' - green and white variegated leaves; 'Camille' - creamy white leaves edged with green and green mid-rib; 'Rebecca' - compact, creamy white leaves splotched with green and yellow; 'Rudolf Roehrs' - white blotches on gold- green leaves with dark green leaf edges and dark green mid-rib; 'Compacta' - creamy white leaves with green spots; 'Tropic Star' - bright creamy-yellow with irregular green splotches; 'Silver' - silver and green leaves; 'Nelly' - green leaves with cream, slow growing and compact; 'Pittieri' - emerald green leaves with white and ivory patches; 'Wilson's Delight' - large, solid-green leaves with white mid-ribs; 'Perfection' - green and cream variegated leaves.

Improve Soil for Arborvitaes

2002-12-03T22:38:00.000-06:00

I have 10 emerald green arborvitaes of 12 ft in height which were planted in spring of 2001. They were bright green until this past summer where in Rye, New York we experienced a drought problem and they started to brown. Even with all the water we recently gotten, they still don't look healthy. I'm planning to retransplant them to a anothert location for esthetic reasons but I'm afraid that they may not survive. Can you let me know what I can do to improve the conditions of the trees and if its possible I can retransplant them and what kind of soil and fertilizer do I need to do this.

Your advice will be greatly appreciated.

**Arborvitae**

It is best to plant the trees directly in the type of soil you have in your yard or garden. It is a mistake to dig a hole and fill it with soil that has a different soil structure, as well as a mistake to spread a layer of soil with different structural texture over the existing layer of soil. These methods create problems with water moving through the soil, and the trees will surely do poorly, if they survive at all. The first thing to do is remove the topsoil from a three foot in diameter circle for each tree and set it to the side. Loosen the subsoil with a spade to a depth of about 2 feet and chop it up finely so as there are no large lumps. Mix a little loam soil, peat moss, sharp sand and bone meal into this subsoil layer to improve drainage and texture. (You may have to get rid of a few shovels full of this subsoil before mixing in the ingredients, or you'll end up with too much soil upon completion). After doing this, return the topsoil (even if is clayey) and thoroughly mix in some loam soil, more peat moss (a layer that is at least 3 or 4 inches thick when spread over the soils surface), sharp sand (unless of course your soil is very sandy or gravelly, in which case omitt the sand), and a cupfull of bonemeal. The bonemeal is high in phosphorous and promotes healthy root growth. The end result should be a loose, friable soil (like a garden soil that you could easily plant small seeded veggies like carrots or lettuce, for example). There should only be enough soil in the planting hole so that after the tree is planted, there is still a 2 inch depression around the tree so that water will soak into the soil around the tree as opposed to draining away from the trees roots due to a build up of soil around the tree. I always carefully remove 2 or 3 inches of soil from the plants rootball so that some of the plants roots are already surrounded with this fresh soil when the tree is planted. This also enables one to spread out any roots that were circling the rootball (if it was container grown) or prune off any broken roots. It is important to cover the root ball of the planted tree with at least one inch of your soil, otherwise, if the root ball is of a different soil type, and it is higher than the surrounding soil, it can act as a wick and dry out quickly, killing the trees roots. The soil must be kept moist when establishing newly planted trees or shrubs, never soggy wet, or allowed to dry out. The soil around the trees should than be mulched with a 4 to 6 inch layer of organic matter to prevent loss of soil moisture, maintain even soil temperature, keep the soil loose and help prevent the growth of weeds.

Once arborvitae are fully established, all that is generally necessary is a sprinkling of 5-10- 5 fertilizer around each tree in early spring to keep them growing healthy and green. If this does not appear to be doing the job, a soil test may be necessary to find out which macro or micro-nutrients are lacking in the soil.

I do not know if your trees were balled and burlapped, or container grown when they were purchased, but if they were ball and burlapped, they will have naturally lost alot of roots when they were dug up. If the 12 foot high trees did not receive adequate water during the dry spell, along with a reduced amount of roots needed to absorb moisture, (even though it is a year later) the direct result would be browning of the needles caused by dessication. Another possibility of browing needles could be a heavy infestation of spider mites or other insects. It won't hurt to examine the trees carefully for pests. If the trees are located near roads, and salt is used for de-icing the roads, splashing salt water will cause browining of the needles. Pesticides will also kill evergreen needles if the pesticde were used in high concentration and close to the trees. (Just some other possible causes of browning).

The only way to help the trees at this time is to keep the soil moist (providing the ground is not frozen) and if possible, provide shelter from the prevailing winds by placing burlap in front of the trees. Spraying the foliage with water from a garden hose during warm spells will also help reduce further dessication of the needles.

It would do the trees more harm than good to try and transplant them at this time of the year. Early spring is the best time to transplant arborvitae, at least in the colder regions of our continent. If the trees must be moved in the spring, it will be best to try and dig up a larger root ball in order to try and save any new roots the tree has produced over the last two seasons. A further loss of roots at this time when the trees are already stressed will definetly do more harm than good.

Brown Fern Leaves

2002-11-24T22:37:00.000-06:00

My ferns are turning brown on the ends. Leaves are falling off. I put them in the bathroom for the humidity but this just made ends turn brown even more. I water when the soil is almost dry. I am using fertilizer which has kept the plant green. What can I do and how long will it take for this plant to pep up with the right conditions? I wanted to use them in my wedding January first but that doesn't look like it's going to happen.

Boston Fern - *Nephrolepis exaltata*

Firstly, the Boston Fern (Nephrolepsis exaltata 'Bostoniensis') is a tropical plant, so, in order for it to succeed in our homes, we have to try and give it (as closely as possible) the same environmental conditions it would have growing in its native habitat. This is not to say that all Ferns growing in nature are perfect, absolutely not. In fact, the most beautiful specimens are found in greenhouses where temperature, watering, humidity and fertilizing are stringently controlled. Unfortunately, in most of our homes, the environment is less than perfect, so we can not always expect our plants to look absolutely perfect, no matter how hard we try. Although, in some homes there is that perfect spot where all the factors required for optimum growth and health of a particular plant exist, and it will simply flourish, even with neglect. On the other hand, there are homes where the necessary factors for a particular plant do not exist, in which case, it is best to choose a different plant altogether, one that will tolerate, or even thrive in that particular environment. This is not to say a Boston Fern will not flourish in your home, but, if the plant is constantly showing signs of stress, then it may be best to try growing a different plant under those conditions in the home.

To grow a healthy Boston Fern, the media must be well-drained but also contain ample amounts of organic matter such as peat moss so it will retain moisture. The soil must never be allowed to dry out, it must be kept constantly moist, so the number one problem with your plant may be found in your statement ('I water when the soil is almost dry'). However, the soil must never stay soggy wet as this condition can lead to root rot. Thoroughly water the plant as soon as the soils surface approaches dryness. Do not let the pot sit in the excess drainage water after watering the plant. Water the plant according to the environmental conditions surrounding the plant. For example, a plant will need to be watered less frequently when days are cool and cloudy, as compared to hot and sunny days. A plant growing in a very warm centrally heated room will need watering more often than a plant in a cool room. There is really no such thing as a regular watering schedule for any plant, it should only be watered when it needs watering.

The bathroom humidity is probably fine, as the Boston Fern needs a humid environment, but is the plant receiving adequate light and warmth? They thrive in a curtain-filtered window or artificial light of 300 to 400 footcandles. They must not have direct sun, nor heavy shade. A plant that gradually turns yellow and starts to die off needs more light, or the the air in the room is too warm. When the air is too warm, the fronds will start turning yellow from the base of the plant or the fronds will develop brown spots and fall.

They thrive in a temperature range of 60 degrees F at night and 70 degrees F during the day. If the daytime temperatures are higher, the air must be humid. A combination of dry air and dry soil will result in the fronds dying back. Yellowing fronds, or those with brown tips are the result of the air being too dry. It is important to keep the plant away from radiators and hot air registers as these plants can not tolerate hot dry air or overly warm conditons. The plant must not be subjected to cold drafts. If the fronds are being continually touched or handled, they will turn brown.

Over-fertilizing the Boston Fern, especially if the soil is too dry, will cause fronds to turn brown without fail. In most cases, the plant only needs to be fed twice a year, once in spring and once again in mid-summer, unless the plants fronds are showing the familiar pale green symptom in which case it may need an additional feeding. A balanced plant food such as 20-20-20 applied at half the manufacturer's recommended rate is usually sufficient. As long as the plant looks healthy and is growing, there is no need to fertilize it.

Browning fronds can be the result of a pot bound plant or a compacted soil. When the plant is watered, the water may not soak the entire root-ball if the soil is compacted, but merely drain away down the sides of the root-ball. With a pot-bound plant, the pot is so full of roots that the soil can not hold enough water at each watering to meet the plants demands, and the fronds will turn yellow or brown.

Another possible cause, although unlikely in this case, is damage from insect pests. Keep an eye open for spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, thrips and scale insects. If the plant is not too large, it is of great benefit to take it to the shower now and again and give it a washing with a gentle spray of tepid water to wash off any dust or insects that may have accumulated.

Finally, it is not uncommon for the odd mature frond to turn brown on the plant. Simply cut if off at the soil line and remove it. Brown leaflets can also be removed to improve the looks of the plant. It is best to remove the dead fronds close to the soil so the new fronds can grow up through the plant easier. In conclusion, the two most important factors in keeping a Boston Fern healthy and acitively growing are: 1. Never let the soil (media) dry out, and 2. always keep the surrounding air moist or humid. These rules apply to almost all the different kinds of ferns we grow as houseplants.

Yellowing Yucca Leaves

2002-11-22T22:37:00.000-06:00

I have a Elephant Yucca plant indoors. Lately the leaves have been turning yellow and aren't as sturdy as before. They are becoming droopy. Is this the result of too little watering or too much watering. I appreciate your help. Thank you.

Spineless Yucca - *Yucca elephantipes*

As I have no way of knowing what is actually causing the leaves to turn yellow and droop on your Spineless Yucca (Yucca elephantipes), I hope you will be able to determine the cause of the problem from the information provided below.

Yellowing, wilting, or drooping leaves can be a direct result of either under-watering or over-watering the plant. The best way to water the plant is to thoroughly soak the soil and then do not water it again until the soil's surface is dry. The pot must never sit in the excess water that runs out of the containers drainage holes. The soil or medium must be one that is gritty and drains freely to prevent possible over-watering of the plant. In winter, if the room is quite cool, the plant must be watered even more sparingly as Yucca plants are very susceptible to stem and root rot diseases under cold, wet conditions.

If the soil is allowed to over-dry, the plant will not be able to absorb enough water, so the plants cells will loose turgor (the normal size or swelling of a cell caused by internal pressure of water taken in by the cell) due to transpiration, and thus, the leaves will wilt or droop. With prolonged dryness of the soil, some leaves (usually the lower older leaves, but not always) will quit functioning, turn yellow and die. This is natural. The older leaves are aborting in order that the younger leaves will recieve the water. The solution is to water the plant more frequently, so as not to allow the soil to over-dry.

If the plant is being over-watered, the same effect is taking place, but in a somewhat different manner. Firstly, a plants roots must have oxygen for both the roots and the plant to be healthy and survive. A good potting media should be porous (have little spaces between the soil particles), and ideally, half of the pores should be filled with water and the remaining half filled with oxygen (air). If a soil has poor structural content (has few pore spaces) and is kept constantly wet, the plants roots are harmed due to a build up of poisonous gases (carbon dioxide, etc) in the soil given off by the plants roots as they transpire. The damaged roots (many of which begin to decay) can no longer absorb enough water to meet the plants demands, and the same effect occurs as with an over- dry soil, the leaves turn yellow and droop. The difference here is that a plant that wilts from drought will bounch back if it is watered soon enough, whereas, an over-watered plant that suffers from root decay will only get worse and eventually collaspe (die) if it continues to be over-watered. The solution is to reduce watering! It may be necessary to check the plants root ball for decaying (mushy, brown, sometimes foul smelling) roots. If present, they should be cut back to healthy, white colored roots and the plant should be repotted in fresh, well-drained soil (media). Do not water the plant for at least two days so as to allow the root ends to callus. It is also important not to over-water the plant during the recovery period - it takes a while for the new roots to grow.

There could be other factors causing the problem such as the plant being potbound. In this case, the plant can not be supplied enough water to meet its demands due to the large amount of roots in the pot, and it will wilt between waterings. Repot the plant in a one size larger container.

An excessive build up fertilizer (salts) in the soil can cause the leaves to yellow and droop. Water molecules cling to the salt which prevents the roots from absorbing that water. Hard white, crusty deposits located near the pots drainage holes or a white crust on the soil's surface indicates a high sodium build up. The solution is to repot the plant in fresh, well-drained media, or leach out the excess salt by watering the plant thoroughly to dissolve the salts, and then water the plant again in half and hour to wash out the dissolved salts. Scrape off any salt deposits found near the drainage holes or on the pots sides. On the other hand, a plants leaves will turn yellow or pale green if it is lacking nutrients, especially nitrogen. Feed the plant a well-balanced plant food such as 20-20- 20 two or three times a year during the growing season.

Other possible causes are a sudden change in light, temperature or relative humidity. Remedies are to move the plant to a brighter or dimmer location, increase or decrease the temperature and maintain an even temperature range, and increase humidity levels in the room if they are very low. Often, over a period of time, the soil will become compacted and the roots may decay, again from a lack of oxygen - repot the plant in fresh soil.

Finally, a heavy insect infestation such as red spider mites can quickly turn a plants leaves yellow and cause them to droop. Examine the leaves and stem with a hand held magnifying glass and administer proper eradication procedures if insects are present.

Keeping Deer from Eating Arborvitae

2002-11-12T22:35:00.000-06:00

We have tons of deer and 27 arborvitae just planted this year. They are about 4 feet tall. Deer go to these trees when the ground is covered with snow. How do we prevent this? Can we bag the trees in cloth and plastic, or what? Soap does not seem to work, and fencing can be expensive. Help!!

**Arborvita**

If deer become a very big problem, you can sometimes get help from your local Environemental or Conservation Departments in these matters.

Otherwise, each tree can be protected by surrounding it with burlap or any type of material, but this material should not touch the trees foliage. Another alternative, the one I frequently use, is to surround each tree with plastic snowfence or chicken wire, held in place with posts made up from 3/8 or 1/2 inch thick cement re-inforcing re-bar that has been cut into 4 or 5 foot lengths. Pound 4 or 5 of these posts into the ground around the tree, being sure each one is about 10 inches or so away from the tree, and tie the snowfence or chicken wire to the re-bar with soft wire. A piece of burlap can be used with the chicken wire on the side of the tree which faces the prevailing winds to help prevent winter browning of the needles.

A fairly reliable non-toxic animal repellent called 'Skoot' may be used to help deter the deer. This repellent works by leaving a very awful taste in the animals mouth. They seldom come back for a second mouthful. It is either painted or sprayed unto the tree or shrub. It should be available at most garden centers or hardware stores, but if you can not find it locally, here is the address for one source: Early's Established 1907, 2615 Lorne Ave., Saskatoon Saskatchewan, S7J 0S5, Canada Email: earlys@sasktel.net Website: www.earlysgarden.com.

Bloodmeal can be scattered on the ground around the trees to help deter the deer, but it becomes ineffective after a heavy snowfall, so additional applications are required. It is best to keep it several feet away from the trees as it is quite high in nitrogen.

Some folks claim hanging strands of human hair near each tree will work, but I've never tested this method. Setting bait out for the deer, as far away from the trees as possible should help to some degree. If all else fails, fencing the trees may be the only solution.

Ficus Lumps on Trunk and Stems

2002-11-11T22:33:00.000-06:00

My indoor ficus benjamina is growing brown, round, clumps on the trunk and stems. Is this a fungus, disease, or what. It appears to be thriving okay, and has been repotted this spring. The main trunk has one lump that has been there approx. 4 years, but now other lumps are developing on the branches and higher up on the trunk. How much pruning should I do to keep it healthy? Thanks.

***Ficus benjamina***

I cannot be absolutely sure what the brown, round clumps are without actually seeing them, but here are some possibilties.

First, because the 4 year old lump does not appear to be hurting the tree, the clumps could be galls, caused by insects such as mites. These galls do little actual harm, but they are a nuisance in that they disfigure the tree. Galls are abnormal growths or tumors that vary in size from a wart to those which are several inches thick. The solution here would be to identify the mite problem (if there is one) and then treat the plant with an appropriate miticide to rid the plant of the mites.

If they are galls caused by a bacterial or fungal disease, it would be quite likely that the tree would be showing signs of stress after 4 years of infection. In any case, the solution would be to remove the galls by cutting the infected branches off from 4 to 6 inches below the galls. The pruning shears should be dipped into a 10% bleach solution after each cut is made to prevent spreading the disease to other parts of the plant.

Another cause could be a condition known as 'Oedema'. Swellings are caused by an over-development of cells, induced by an excess of water combined with incorrect lighting and temperature. The swellings appear as light brown, corky scabs or bumps on various parts of the plant, (in most cases the leaves). The problem is corrected by giving the plant better drainage ( a media which will not remain too wet), monitoring watering of the plant more closely and carefully, and moving the plant to better light if necessary.

Brown, soft scale appear as brown bumps or immobile lumps on the stem, branches and leaves of Ficus plants. A sticky substance known as 'honeydew' is often found on plant parts, or near the plant where scale insects are found. A black sooty mould will often develop and grow on this honeydew. These insects can be controlled by using a dormant oil spray which suffocates them, or by rubbing the scale rather roughly with a piece of cloth that has been dipped into a Malathion solution. 'ALWAYS FOLLOW DIRECTIONS AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS LISTED ON THE PESTICIDE CONTAINER'S LABLES'.

If still in doubt as to what the brown, round clumps are, send a sample to an Analytical Laboratory in your region for positive identification of the growths. Once they are identified, proper treatment can be administered.

Pruning Redbud Tree

2002-10-26T22:32:00.000-06:00

We just bought a house that has a 10' redbud tree. The tree wasn't properly shaped when it was new so it has a lot of low branches, making it look almost like a bush. When and how much can be pruned. I know you said it shouldn't be pruned too much, but because of the way it looks we're tempted to get rid of it if it can't be helped. You have a great website, I looked at a lot of others for help and your's is the best.

**Eastern Redbud (*Cercis canadensis*)**

Thank you very much for rating my web-site so highly. I have often wondered if anyone has ever used the information in my articles to their benefit. This was my hope and reason for starting the web-site.

As for pruning your redbud tree, the proper time is either immediately after it has completed blooming or when the tree is dormant in later winter (before it starts to flower or leaf out).

It is best to prune and shape this tree while it is young because of its susceptibility to so many diseases (Canker, Verticillium Wilt, and Rebud Leaf Spot, for examples). When the tree is young, the limbs or branches are small, so the wounds that are made from pruning are naturally small and will heal over quickly. In contrast, pruning off large branches results in leaving large wounds which may take several years to heal over. The longer a wound takes to heal over, the greater the risk of a pathogen entering the wound and infecting the tree with a disease.

However, now that your tree is beyond the young stage, you will need to remove some large branches to acquire the desired results you are after. At no time should more than 25% of a tree's top growth be removed intentionally (a windstorm that may cause a lot of damage is unavoidable, for example). A tree needs branches and leaves to produce food through the process of photosynthesis. If too many are removed at one time, the tree can suffer from a shortage of food production and the 'dwarfing' effect may occur - the tree will remain the same size for many years, or even die. Secondly, if two many branches are removed at one time, the tree now has a lot of established roots, but fewer branches and leaves to use the moisture and nutrients the roots can supply it. So, the tree can put out a horribly huge amount of water sprouts or suckers from dormant, latent buds, which rob nutrients from the good parts of the tree besides ruining the entire shape and look of the tree, if they are not removed. A portion of the topgrowth should be removed each year until the desired effect is achieved.

So basically, remove a few of the larger lower branches (do not leave any stubs as these will not heal over) and any branches that cross or rub each other, up to a maximum of 25% of the trees topgrowth in the first season. Remove smaller branches where they join a larger branch, again leaving no stubs. Before any pruning is done, take a look at the tree and keep in mind the natural shape of the tree. One can not put a branch back on the tree after it is cut off. The idea is to form a tree with strong (branches are at right angles to the trunk), well spaced main branches that hold true to the shape of that species of tree, along with an open, airy canopy by removing crowded branches in the canopy. Tree wounds do not need to be painted with a tree dressing, but if you feel it is necessary, use only Pine Tar Tree Wound Dressing.

I hope your tree does well and will not have to be removed. Best of luck with the pruning!

When to Take Cuttings from Gardenia

2002-10-20T22:32:00.000-06:00

When is the best time to try to establish a new cutting from a Gardenia Bush and how?

***Gardenia jasminoides***

Greenwood and semi-ripe cuttings root well at anytime of the year (March being the best time ). Both types of cuttings are taken from the current years growth. Basically, this means choosing shoots that have not become to woody (hard), nor those that are still soft and sappy. Use only healthy, disease free shoots. These cuttings differ from hardwood cuttings in that hardwood cuttings are mature wood and the stems or shoots do not have leaves when they are taken. Gardenias can also be air-layered to propagate new plants (see article on air-layering).

Make the cuttings about 3 inches long using the stem-tips. Cut the bottom of the cutting just below a node (joint) with a very sharp knife. Remove the bottom leaves from the cutting. Dip the bottom end of the cutting in a rooting hormone powder (shake off the excess powder) or gel, and insert immediately into the rooting medium so as not to let the cuttings wilt. Use vermiculite, a sand and peat mixture, or a commercially prepared rooting medium to root the cuttings. Water the cuttings in well and keep the media moist thereafter - never soggy wet. Place each cutting in its own little pot or tray, as gardenia's resent having their roots disturbed. Once they have rooted, they can be transplanted into proper soil by taking them out of the little pot, media and all, so as not to disturb the roots.

These cuttings generally root in 6 - 8 weeks, provided the air is kept humid around them, and they are given bottom heat (media) of 68 - 77 degrees F. (Cuttings have usually rooted when new growth is noticed at the tips, or when they resist a very gentle tugging). To keep them close (humid) and the media warm, they can be placed in a clear plastic bag and the container set on top of a refrigerator, for example.

Sanitation is a very important factor when trying to root cuttings. To start with, hands should be clean, tools should be sterile (dip them in a water and bleach solution), the rooting media must be sterile (vermiculite for example), and the containers should be new, or at least clean and sterile. The plastic bag should be removed from the cuttings for a short while at least every two days or so, to replace stale air with fresh air. Any decaying or moldy leaves should be removed immediately to prevent the spread of disease (Gray Mold) to other cuttings. If mold becomes a problem, treat the cuttings with a dusting of sulphur or other fungicide, and give the cuttings more ventilation (poking a few holes in the plastic bag, for example).

Over all, the secret to success is in providing the cuttings with good media aeration, a warm, humid environment and a warm rooting medium. Cuttings do not always strike (take root), but this is no reason to give up. In time, and with practice, one learns when to take the cuttings and when the wood is at the proper ripeness for easy rooting. Its like anything else, practice makes perfect. Best of luck!

Potted Plant Drainage

2002-10-18T22:31:00.000-06:00

I have a peace lily that I got when my mother past away so it really means alot to me. I transplanted it from its original pot to a pretty pot, about a 3 gal. container. It does not have drain holes in it though. It did good for awhile then recently not so good. It is always wet but I think it is too wet. Should it have drain holes? I put some osmacote plant fertilizer in it and some natures helper on the top for some fresh soil. Need help please!!!

Peace Lily *Spathiphyllum spp.*

All plants should be given containers with drainage holes, otherwise, it is very difficult to thoroughly water the plant without over-watering it. Although peace lilies (Spathiphyllum sp.) should be kept moist at all times, the leaves will wilt if the soil is too moist, especially if temperatures are too cold. This is likely the problem with your plant. Night temperatures should not drop lower than 65 degrees F. The leaves will also wilt if the soil is too dry, but they will spring back quickly when watered again.

The peace lily needs low to medium light. At no time should it be placed in direct sunlight, they prefer shade. Flowers are produced in 200 - 300 footcandles of light.

Feed the plant every 3 months or so using a weak solution of houseplant fertilizer, only if it is growing well. Never fertilize an unhealthy houseplant.

The solution to the problem is to remove the plant from its container and repot it in a container which has drainage holes. Give it fresh potting soil which is composed of 2 parts peat moss, 1 part potting soil and 1 part perlite. Keep this mix moist at all times. Remove any rotted roots before repotting the plant. The plant can be divided at this time (at anytime of the year) to propagate new plants. I hope your plant recovers.