Start a Chestnut Tree

How would I start to grow a chestnut tree? I have a half dozen of the nuts I would like to start from scratch. Thanks.

Seeds of Chestnut (Castanea spp.) should be sown fresh to prevent them from drying. They should be collected, their husks removed, and sown immediately after they fall from the tree. If immediate sowing is not possible, the seed must be stored in moistened peat moss or sawdust at a low temperature of 36-38 degrees F., although storing of ephemeral seed is not recommended.

Prior to actual germinating of the seeds (nuts), they will require a period of moist chilling. This chilling will break the seeds dormancy. This is accomplished by soaking the seed in water for approximately 24 hours and then placing them in a plastic bag containing a sterile material such as vermiculite or peat moss for a period of 8-12 weeks at 39-40 degrees F. A refrigerator is generally used for a small amount of seed. They should be checked periodically to be sure the media remains moist and that the seed has not begun to sprout. If any seeds have sprouted, they must be removed and planted.

Once the 8-12 week chilling period is over, the seeds are removed and planted at a depth of 1 to 1 1/2 inches in a good potting medium for starting seeds. This media may be prepared at home or purchased from any garden center. The seeds should be placed on their sides when sown to promote a good seedling form. A soil (media) temperature of 70-80 degrees F. should be maintained and the medium kept constantly moist. Placing the pots in clear plastic bags will prevent the medium from drying out. In areas with warm climates, the seed may be sown directly outside.

Once the young trees have reached a suitable size for growing outside, they must be 'hardened off' before they are set out of doors to prevent the sun and wind from desiccating the tender new leaves. If the seed was directly sown in the garden soil, this step is not necessary, of course.

The soil should be well-drained, slightly acid and contain a good amount of organic matter. Adding sphagnum peat moss to a soil will increase the acidity level. Chestnuts are shallow rooted, so care must be taken not to injure the roots when weeding. Mulching the soil with a 3-4 inch layer of organic material around each tree is preferred over shallow cultivation which could injure the roots. The mulch will help to keep weeds down while keeping the soil moist. Any weeds that appear can be pulled by hand.

Pampas Grass Pruning

I have several pampas grass plants at a house I recently bought. They are quite tall and bushy. How much (if any) should I prune them back for the upcoming growing season? I need to trim them some for mowing, and have had unprofessional opinions that I can trim them way back.

How you trim your pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana) depends of several circumstances, such as the location of the plants, the condition of the plants and the age of the plants.

But first, if we take a quick peek at some of the anatomy of a grass plant, it is easier for us to understand how the plant functions and grows, and therefore, easier for us to know how to care for it. Grass, like all plants, grow by cell division. In other words, one cell divides to form two new cells. As the two new cells grow to the size of the original cell, the plant elongates ( gets longer). These cells then divide and so on and so forth. This cell division occurs in a specialized region of the plant known as the meristem. Most plants have this meristematic region at the tips of their shoots and the tips of their roots. These are called apical meristems. Trees also have a meristematic region in the cambium (the bark) which enables them to grow wider or gain in girth. So, as the cells divide and expand at the tips of the shoots and roots, the plant gets taller and the roots get longer. If we were to cut the top of the shoot off, a lower branch or stem would become the leader, or dormant lateral buds would break dormancy and continue to grow upwards. This is most apparent when we cut back a shrub to encourage it to bush out.

Grass is different in that it has intercalary meristems which are meristematic regions found at the base of the grass blades. This is the reason lawn grass resumes normal growth after it has been mowed. So, cutting back the pampas grass works on the same principle.

However, this does not mean we should go out and chop it down anytime we get the urge. Grass manufactures two thirds (2/3) of its food through the leaf blade through the process of photosynthesis and 1/3 from the roots. The plant would eventually starve if we were to keep removing the leaf blades. This is also noticeable on many lawn grasses that are mowed too close to the ground.

So, how much to trim? In the more northerly states where winters are harsh and pampas grass less hardy, there may be a lot of damage and die back of the plant. The plant can be rejuvenated by cutting it back to two (2) feet from the ground in the spring before growth starts. In areas where winters are less harsh, it may only be necessary to remove the dead leaves from the plant by cutting them off at the base of the plant. If some of these sharp edged leaves are growing over a sidewalk or interfering with mowing (as in your case), they may be removed at ground level or cut back to within 2 feet from the ground in the spring. It is wise to wear thick leather gloves, a long sleeved shirt, and long pants when working in and around this grass.

Pampas grass will require replanting when the center of the clump starts to die out and growth only resumes at the perimeter of the clump. It can be propagated by division of the younger, healthy parts growing at the edges of the clump. In this case, the leaves can be cut back to several inches from the ground.

Ground Cover, Bare Root Propogation, and More!

I have several areas of Japanese spurge groundcover that has been thriving for years, but has stopped spreading. I would like to finish filling in the bare spots (several hundred square feet total) over the next few years. Is there an easy way to propogate new starts from the existing plants? I hope to do some 600 new starts this spring.

On the web I found a place called Greenwood Nursery in Tennessee that seems to have very reasonable prices for spurge they ship bare root. This may be the best way to go, though my shipping costs will be high. Not sure where you are but do you know of any Northwest nurseries that would offer a similar product?

If I do get the bare root starts, I was going to dig small holes 12" apart and use a potting mix of some sort to start them. Does that sound like a reasonable approach? Should I use hotcaps until the danger of frost is gone? The existing plants survive the hardest freezes, and thanks to your article about shrubs freezing I now know why. Thanks for the great site and will understand if you can't answer all this! Jim

Yes, Japanese Spurge (Pachysandra terminalis) can be propagated without difficulty by using several different methods of plant propagation. But first, a little information about the plant for those who may be interested in growing this beautiful groundcover. The Latin name Pachysandra is made up of two Greek words, pachys, meaning 'thick' and andros which means 'man' or 'male'. The name refers to the thick stamens of the flowers. The species name terminalis means 'terminal' and refers to the flower spikes which grow at the top of the stems. Pachysandra belongs to the family Buxaceae (Buxus).

This hardy (at least to zone 4) evergreen, native to Japan, has shiny dark green, serrate (saw-toothed) leaves that grow in whorls at the top of the stems. The plants average 6-12 inches high and produce 3 - 4 inch long spikes of small creamy-white flowers in the spring. The plant is stoloniferous which means it spreads by underground branching rhizomes. It thrives in medium to dense shade which makes it invaluable as a groundcover in a woodland setting.

Two cultivars of Pachysandra terminalis are 'Green Carpet' which is hardier, darker green in color, more compact and produces more flowers than the species. 'Silveredge' is a variegated variety with silvery white margins on the lighter green leaves.

I would recommend propagating new plants from your established beds as these plants are acclimatized to your area. A very quick and easy method of propagating Japanese spurge is by division. In the spring before new growth starts, choose and dig out young, healthy clumps of the plant from your established beds. I usually dig out a clump about 10 - 12 inches in diameter and then carefully separate the clump into as many small plants as possible. All that is needed on each section is a few roots and a few leaves or buds. Plant these small sections in well prepared soil as soon as they are separated from the clump or at least place them in plastic bags to keep the roots moist. The tiny feeder roots should not be allowed to dry out. Add a little organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure along with some bonemeal to the holes that are left from digging the clumps and they will quickly fill in again. A 10 x 10 foot patch of this type of groundcover can generate hundreds of small new plants.

Another means of propagating Pachysandra terminalis is by taking stem or root cuttings in late spring or early summer. As you take the stem cuttings, place them in a plastic bag or stand them up in a small container of water to prevent them from drying. Once the cutting has been removed from the plant, there are, of course, no longer any roots to supply them with water and they can perish quickly. These cuttings may be started in flats or they may be started in well prepared garden soil as long as shade is provided. A good rooting media to use in flats is sand, vermiculite or a sand-peat mix. Prepared rooting medias can also be purchased at most garden centers. Once the cuttings are inserted in the rooting media or garden soil, they must be kept constantly moist, not wet. Cuttings will root much quicker if bottom heat (the temperature of the media) can be maintained between 70 - 80 degrees F.

To take the cuttings, wait until new growth on the plant in the spring or early summer is approximately 6 inches long. Take the cuttings from the tips of the shoots by cutting at a node or directly beneath it using a sharp knife or sharp secateur. The cuttings should be approximately 3-4 inches long. Remove the lower leaves from the cutting (close to the stem) and insert it in the media (bottom end of course) trying to bury two nodes in the media. Wait patiently for them to root (keep the media moist), and once they are well rooted, they may be moved to their permanent location and kept moist by covering the soil with a 2 or 3 inch layer of organic mulch.

You may want to try rooting some cuttings using this method. Purchase floral foam from a florist shop and cut it into 1 inch cubes. Using a sharp knife, cut through the node of the 3 - 4 inch long cutting and insert it into the cube of foam. Place these cubes into a flat container that will hold water and fill the container with water so that half of the cube is submerged. When 1 inch long roots are visible, the cutting, foam and all, may be planted directly in the ground where you wish your plants to grow. Be sure all of the foam is covered with soil or the sun can dry it out, killing your plant.

Root cuttings are made by cutting healthy 3/10 inch thick roots into 2 inch long segments and planting them ½ to 1 ½ inches deep in flats of rooting media or directly into well prepared garden soil. When the new plants are 4 inches tall, they can be planted in their permanent location.

You may want to try starting a few new plants using all of these methods the first year, then you will know which works the best for you. The following year should see a plant population explosion.

Groundcovers, like any type of plant, should be planted in the same type of soil that you would want to plant your garden in. Perennials, unlike annuals, must remain in the same spot for many years. Proper preparation of the soil will not only get the plants off to a quick, vigorous start, but will reward you with a beautiful, dense groundcover for years to come. If the soil is already loose, friable, has the proper amounts of organic matter and other amendments like bonemeal added to it, and is weed free, than there is no need to dig holes and add potting media. If the plan is to dig holes in weedy, hard compacted soil and then fill them with a potting media to start your new plants, I personally would not go this route.

When we dig a hole in any type of soil structure (sand, clay, loam etc.), and add a completely different type of soil to this hole, there will be a change in the rate and pattern of water movement in that soil. Without going into detail, this is not good. Furthermore, in the event of heavy rains, puddling could occur, resulting in death of some of the plants. On the other extreme, these pockets of different soil can shrink and dry in very hot weather. Avoiding situations that can lead to stress is the best care we can give a plant.

Another problem that arises with this method of planting is if the new plants do start to grow, eventually their roots will encounter the unprepared soil and growth will slow. In severe cases, if the unprepared soil is an actual hardpan, the plants roots will turn when they encounter the hard soil and grow in circles. The root system then becomes crowded and entangled which results in stressed and weak plants. Stressed plants are far more susceptible to disease and insect infestations. For information on how to properly prepare garden soil, refer to Preparing the Garden Soil at Brians Garden.

If you start new plants by division or from your own cuttings, hotcaps will not be necessary as the plants will already be hardened off. Providing some shade and shelter from the hot sun and drying winds until the new plants are established never hurts, but this is not entirely necessary. The secret is in keeping the new plants watered, do not let them dry out. If you choose to order the bare-rooted stock from the far south and set them out before your killing frosts are over, some type of protection is probably wise.

'Art Knapp Plantland' is a retail garden center in British Columbia, Canada, that claims if they don't have it, they can get it for you. The website is: www.artknapp.com. The mailing address: 1300 Dominion Ave, Port Coquitlam, BC V3C 3V4.

Is the Peace Lily Toxic?

Yes, the Peace Lily, also commonly named Spathe Flower or White Flag (Spathiphyllum spp. ) and their cultivars are known to be toxic, especially to children. It is best to treat all houseplants and outdoor plants as toxic if you are not absolutely sure of them. Always post emergency phone numbers near your phone which should include: Poison Control Center; Doctor; Ambulance; Police and Fire Department.

If a child (anyone) should eat any portion of a plant that you know little about, it is best to consult a physician immediately. Ambulance personnel should be given a sample of the plant, or take some with you if a trip to the hospital is necessary. It is much easier for physicians if they know what caused the poisoning or illness.

Bird's Nest

In early February, a reader searched for the topic "Birds Nest" on the web site. No question was posted, but Brian wanted to respond to the inquiry...

	There are several plants that go by the name of "BirdsNest". This is often the problem with common names. As for an actual plant named "BirdsNest Plant", I am not familiar with one. Some of the more common plants going by the name BirdsNest are named and pictured below.
	BirdsNest Fern (Asplenium nidus)
	BirdsNest Bromeliad (Nidularium innocentii)
	BirdsNest Sansevieria (Sansevieria trifasciata 'Hahnii')
	BirdsNest Cactus (Mammillaria camptotricha)
	BirdsNest Orchid (Neottia nidus-avis)

Heart-Leaf Philodendron

Common Name: Heart-Leaf Philodendron, Sweetheart Plant

Botanical Name: Philodendron scandens

Plant Family: Araceae (Arum Family)

This popular trailing or climbing evergreen plant originates in the tropical rain-forests of America. Its Latin or botanical name is derived from two words: phileo, to love, and dendron, a tree. We can gather from the genus name that most of these plants love to climb trees. The species name in itself leaves no doubt that this plant is a climber as scandens mean 'climbing'. Occasionally, you will find this plant sold under the names of Philodendron cordatum or P. oxycardium. Other interesting cultivars include 'Aureum' - a golden leafed variety and 'Angel Wing' which has larger leaves than Philodendron scandens.

The shiny, solid-green, heart-shaped (cordate) leaves which grow on slender stems remain rather small (3 - 5 inches) if the plant is allowed to hang or if it is used as an inside groundcover plant. If it is given a vertical support such as a moss pole to climb on, the leaves will often grow much larger in size. The young new leaves often have a reddish tinge to them. Small aerial roots that appear on the stems gather moisture from the air and help support the plant by clinging unto rough surfaces.

Heart-Leaf Philodendron is a good choice for the beginner. Its popularity is due to its easy culture in the home. The plant will live in very low light conditions (50 - 75 footcandles), but thrives in bright indirect light without sun of 150 - 225 footcandles. The plants leaves will burn if it is placed in direct sunlight. In its native habitat it lives on the forest floor in the shade of larger plants, wrapping its vines around the trunks and stems as it climbs upwards.

The best temperature range for this plant is 60 - 75 degrees F. They can endure temperatures as low as 50 degrees F., but they will grow very slowly. While the plant is actively growing the soil should remain constantly moist. Water it from the top of the pot until water runs out of the drainage holes in the pot. When the soil surface just starts to feel dry, water it again. In the winter months or any time the plant appears to be dormant, let the top ½ inch of soil dry before watering the plant again. If your philodendron is being over-watered (they cannot stand a soggy soil), the leaves will quickly turn yellow. If you are in doubt as to whether the plant needs watering or not, it is safer to keep it on the drier side.

If humidity levels in the room are lower than 40 - 50 %, misting the plant several times a day (not at night) will be beneficial. Humidity levels can be increased around the plant by using pebble trays, setting basins of water near heat registers or grouping plants together.

A standard houseplant fertilizer applied every 3 - 4 months while the plant is actively growing is generally sufficient. Only repot the plant when the roots demand it, and only into a pot one size larger. A good potting media consists of equal parts potting soil and peat moss, some perlite added for good drainage, and 1 tablespoonful of bonemeal for each gallon of this mix.

The growing tips should be pruned regularly to keep the plant from becoming sparse leafed and lanky. These tips can be used to propagate new plants by placing them in a jar of water to root before potting or inserting them into moist potting media. Place a plastic bag over the pot of cuttings to keep the media moist and the air humid. Each tip cutting should have at least 2 nodes on the stem. Keep your plants leaves washed and clean, and remove any yellow leaves that occur.

Leaves Dropping From Dracaena

I have a pink baby doll Dracaena terminalis "ti plant" that has no visible pests but the older leaves develops scattered tiny spots with a dark center and yellow outline. They also have browning tips. I have the plant against my south facing bay window, keep it moist and mist it once a day. I fertilize it with miracle grow every two weeks. The lower, older leaves are all affected and eventually dry out and fall off. Now the plant has a long trunk with foliage just at the top.

Before we look at what might be causing the tiny spots on the leaves, the brown leaf tips and dropping of the leaves, we should take a look at the plants true name. Many growers or retailers often label plants incorrectly. The species name 'terminalis' would indicate that your plant is really a Cordyline and not a Dracaena. Cordyline terminalis 'Baby Doll' is often incorrectly labeled as Dracaena terminalis 'Baby Doll'.

Although Cordyline and Dracaena plants do look quite similar, an easy way to separate the two genera is by examining the root system. The Dracaena's roots are smooth-surfaced, non-creeping, orange or deep yellow in color. Cordyline spp. and cultivars have a creeping rootstock with knobby, white roots. New plants are often propagated from sections of these fleshy rhizomes or tubers.

Cordyline and Dracaena species are often called False Palms, and for good reason. Older specimens resemble palm trees with their leaves crowned at the tops of leafless stems. The bottom leaves, through the natural aging process which is characteristic of these genera, will yellow and drop usually within two years of age. It is a bit deceiving when we purchase a young new plant because the plants often bear leaves from the base of the stem to its top. This is natural of most plants that have been newly propagated. Eventually, as the plant grows taller and ages, the bottom leaves will drop giving these plants their palm-like appearance.

It would also appear that the plant is actually beginning to look like a real 'Ti plant' or 'Ti tree'. The term 'Ti plant' is generally given to plants like Cordyline, Dracaena and Yucca after they are propagated from a piece of woody cane, or after the old plant has been air-layered and the top part of the plant removed. New leaves then grow at the top of the bear cane, giving the plant a palm-like appearance. These plants are named 'Ti plants' or 'Ti trees'.

It is best to know the natural characteristics of a plant as they grow and develop. In many cases there is really no problem with the plant, but only the natural changes it must go through as it matures and ages. The dark spots with yellow halo's on the leaves of your Cordyline could be one of many fungal or bacterial diseases known as 'Leaf Spot'. The only way of knowing which disease it is and how to control it (if it is a disease) is to have a laboratory examine the spots to verify what they are. If the spots are a disease, they would probably suggest destroying the plant as control methods are difficult. It is unlikely that this is a disease if the spots are only showing up on the leaves that are falling and no where else on the plant. Fungal and bacterial diseases are spread very easily by hand, splashing water, pruning tools or anything that might come in contact with the infected plant tissue. Be sure to dispose of the fallen leaves and badly spotted ones in any case.

Brown spots with yellow edges (halo's) and brown leaf tips can be caused by sun-scorch, low humidity, fluoride in the water, excessive amounts of fertilizer, overwatering or underwatering and high temperatures associated with dryness. When lower leaves dry up and fall off a plant, the main two causes are underwatering and too much heat.

My first suggestion would be to move the plant away from the south bay window. Plants with colored foliage most certainly do require bright light, but not in a location where the sun can beat down on them creating extremely high temperatures and excessively dry air. Cordylines do best near a west window or an east window where they will receive only approximately 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. They can be grown near a south window, but they must be shaded from the hot sun with a light curtain. Inside the bay window, the plant could be suffering from extreme fluctuations in temperature. When a plant is located this close to glass, sunlight is intensified and the area becomes very hot and dry. (Scorching or spotting of leaves can be a direct result of locating a plant to close to a window). During cold nights, temperatures near glass can be considerably cooler. A large rise or drop in temperature can put more sensitive plants into shock, resulting in leaf drop.

Misting the plant once a day in this location could hardly benefit it. Cordylines need high humidity levels, at least 60% for optimum health. The plant should be set on top of pebbles or on top of an upside down catch-basin that sits in the regular catch-basin (so the pot is not sitting in water). The water in the catch-basin will help to increase the humidity level around the plant. If you have ever entered a car with all the windows rolled up on a very hot day with the sun beating down on it, then there is no need to imagine how hot it really can get inside a bay window that faces the south. A plant must transpire at a terrific rate in order to keep itself cool. If humidity levels are very low and the soil becomes dry for even a short period of time, cell damage can occur, resulting in brown or yellow spots on the leafs, brown leaf tips and dead leaves.

Cordylines must always have a moist soil. In the winter months if the plant is dormant, it will not require watering as often as it does while it is actively growing in the summer, but the soil must not be allowed to dry out. Nor must it be overwatered. A constant soggy soil can lead to many problems and eventual plant death. When watering, keep pouring water on the top of the soil until it runs out of the pots drainage holes. Do not water the plant again until the top of the soil just approaches dryness.

Check to see if the plant is pot or root-bound by examining the root ball. If it is pot-bound, the plant may not be receiving the moisture it really requires even though it is being faithfully watered. This is also a good time to check the soil for compaction. Plant roots also need oxygen in order to live, so be sure the soil has good porosity. If it needs repotting, use a pot that is only one size larger.

Fertilizing the plant every two weeks can certainly cause spots on the leaves, brown tips and leaf drop, especially in the winter months if the plant should happen to be dormant. Even if the plant is not dormant, photosynthesis is occurring at a much reduced rate during the winter months because of the much shorter days. How can a plant use up the same amount of nutrient each day in winter as it can in summer when the days are much longer? Most Cordyline and Dracaena plants grown in the home are happy with an application of diluted water-soluble fertilizer every 3-4 months. After all, we do not want the plants growing to quickly. Excessive amounts of fertilizer in the potting media can soon harm and eventually kill a plant. If the potting media has a white crust on the surface or the drainage holes are covered with a whitish brown coating, this indicates a high concentration of salts or too much fertilizer.

A final suggestion (if you are very unhappy with the plants appearance) is to propagate the top portion of the plant using a method known as air-layering. You will have a beautiful, new, compact plant within a few months using this procedure. Be absolutely sure the plant is disease free before endeavoring to do so.

Plant Propagation (Part 2)

Part 1 of "Plant Propagation" briefly discusses reasons why we use sexual (seed) or asexual (vegetative) propagation to reproduce new plants. Part 2 describes some of the methods used to reproduce new plants using vegetative propagation. Many plants can be reproduced by using more than one method of vegetative propagation. Examples of these will be listed in the final series on "Plant Propagation".

Air-Layering

Swiss Cheese Plant - Monstera deliciosa

Air-layering is used to reproduce new compact plants when bottom leaves have dropped off of a plant, resulting in a tall, overgrown specimen with only a few leaves left near the top of the plant. This method of propagation is used on thick-stemmed plants like Ficus elastica (Rubber Plant); Dieffenbachia (DumbCane); Monstera deliciosa (Swiss Cheese Plant); Dracaena spp. ; Cordyline spp. ; Croton spp. and all cultivars of the above named plants, among others. This type of propagation also goes by the names of ringing, Chinese-layering, circumposition, stem-layering and mossing.

The first step in air-layering is to choose a spot on the stem less than 2 feet from the tip (top) of the plant where the air-layering will be done. The top part will be the new plant, so be sure that portion looks like a nice, new plant. If possible, there should be at least 4-5 leaves on the top section.

Dieffenbachia

Using a sharp knife, make a horizontal cut about 1/3 of the way through the stem (preferably just below a node) where you want the roots to be on your new plant. Now, from the end of that cut, turn the knife upwards and slice straight up through the stem about 1(one) inch. The cut should look like the capital letter L when it is finished. Once the cuts are made, force a piece of wooden match stick sideways through the upright cut to keep the layers separated so as they will not heal together again. A rooting hormone powder may be dusted on the two surfaces to help induce rooting, but is not necessarily required.

The next step is to tie one or two handfuls of moist, long fibered sphagnum moss around the stem where the cut is made. The new roots will grow into this moss. The sphagnum moss must only be moist, not wet. A good way to make sure it is moist is to let it soak up all the water it can hold, and then squeeze out as much water as you possibly can with your hands. The moss can now be tied in place around the cut with string. Short fibered moss may also be used , its just a little harder to hold it in place.

The final step is to wrap a clear piece of plastic (a plastic bread-bag will work) around the moss and secure it by tying the top and bottom with string. The plastic keeps the moss moist while the roots are forming and enables you to see the roots once they have formed. The sphagnum moss must not be allowed to dry out during the rooting period. If it has been sealed properly, it generally does not require additional moisture.

Continue to care for the plant as before by watering and feeding it. New roots should develop in 6-8 weeks (or longer) and be clearly visible through the plastic. When several roots are visible, the plant is ready for potting. Choose an appropriate sized pot for the new plant and have the potting soil ready. Remove the plastic, cut the stem off just below the roots and pot up the new plant. Don't try to remove too much of the moss from the root-ball or the delicate new roots may be damaged. Water the plant well and set it in a dimmer light than it normally requires for a couple of days. If you continue to look after the old stem, it may send out new shoots from dormant buds near the top of the stem which can be air-layered at a later date.

Air-layering can also be used out of doors to propagate new shrubs like lilacs (Syringa), for example. Tape should be wrapped around the top and bottom of the plastic to prevent rain water from getting into the moss and making it too wet. A simple upward cut on a slight angle and about 1/3 of the way through the stem is all that is required. The layers must be kept apart using a piece of matchstick as above. These layers can be dusted with a rooting hormone to help induce rooting. Provide shade for the air-layered portion of stem if it happens to be facing the sun. The hot sun can burn the roots or dry out the moss.

Layering, Soil Layering, Ground Layering

Common or English Ivy - Hedera helix

Although this type of vegetative propagation is most often used with climbing vines or trailing plants, many other plants with soft, flexible stems can be layered. It is one of the slower methods of propagation because rooting takes a considerable amount of time. Plants commonly layered include: Hedera helix (Common or English Ivy); Senecio mikanioides (German Ivy); Senecio macroglossus (Cape Ivy); Hoya spp. (Wax Plant); Scindapsus (Devil's Ivy); Syngonium (Arrowhead Vine); Cissus antarctica (Kangaroo Vine); Rhoicissus rhombifolia (Grape Ivy); Jasminum (Jasmime); Gardenia (Gardenia) ; all their cultivars, and other plants.

The best time to use this technique is in the spring or early summer. Choose a healthy, vigorous stem and make a notch about half way through on the underside of the stem about 4-8 inches from the tip of that stem. This notch may be dusted with a rooting hormone powder. The next step is to pin it down (use a U shaped piece of wire turned upside down or a hair pin) onto a pot of moist potting media that is located next to the parent plant. Cover the notched area with ½ inch of media, leaving the end of the stem exposed. Once new growth appears at the end of the stem or near the notch, or gentle tugging indicates the stem has rooted, the stem attaching the new plant to the parent plant may be severed.

Kangaroo Vine- Cissus antarctica

Out of doors, soil layering works equally as well with many shrubs and some trees. There may have been a time when you have tried to pull up a branch that was laying on the soil only to find it was rooted firmly to the ground. Soil layering basically works in the same manner. Trees or shrubs with flexible (bendable) shoots or stems are the easiest to work with. One year old stems root the easiest, although older stems will also root.

All that is required is to choose a healthy stem (leave it attached to the plant) and bend it over so it will touch the soil. The soil should be loose and friable. Make a slight-angled notch or slit on the underside of the stem (about ½ way through the stem) where it touches the soil. If the stem is 2 feet long, make the notch 10 to l2 inches from the tip of the stem. Dig a hole about 3-4 inches deep and bury the notched part of the stem, pegging it down with wire so it remains buried. Keep the soil moist and weed free. Let the plant remain as such for at least one season. The following spring, the plant can be severed from the parent plant (as long as it has rooted well the previous season) and moved to its permanent location. Try to leave some soil on the roots when you move it. Mulch the soil around the new plant with a 3 inch layer of organic matter and keep it watered while it is re-establishing.

Virginia Creeper - Parthenocissus

Trees and shrubs that are easy to layer include: Salix (Willows); Populus (Poplars); Ribes (Currants and Gooseberries); Cotoneaster; Forsythia; Cornus (Dogwood); Syringa spp. (Lilac); Spiraea and Juniperus (Junipers), for examples.

Serpentine layering is the term used for layering plants with long vines. Clematis and Parthenocissus (Virginia Creeper) are often reproduced using this method of vegetative propagation. A long shoot is laid along the soil in a snakelike pattern. Every 2nd node is then slit on the underside to form a slight tongue in the shoot. These nodes are then buried and pegged down with wire while the alternate ones are left exposed on the soils surface. New shoots eventually develop on the exposed nodes while roots form on the buried ones. After a season or two, once good roots have developed, the shoots are severed to form individual plants.

Plantlets, Stolons, and Runners

Devil's Backbone or Mother of Thousands - Kalanchoe daigremontianum

These methods of vegetative propagation are grouped together because new plants are basically reproduced in the same way. A plantlet is a small plant which grows on the end of a flowering stem (Chlorophytum -Spider Plant for example), or on the edges of mature leaves (Kalanchoe daigremontianum-Devils BackBone) and exactly resembles the parent plant.

Falsespirea - Sorbaria sorbifolia

Stolons and runners differ in that stolons run under the soil and produce new plants at their tips, whereas, runners run on top of the ground and produce new plants at joints along the runner. Cornus stolonifera (Red-Osier Dogwood); Spiraeas and Sorbaria sorbifolia (Falsespirea) are examples of plants that produce new plants by means of stolons. The familiar and well known Fragaria (Strawberry) is a plant that produces new plants by means of runners. New plants from stolons can be severed from the parent plant, dug up and transplanted once top growth is of sufficient size. Runners will root themselves, or they can be set into the soil and pegged down to speed up the rooting process. Once they develop a good root system, they can be severed from the parent plant and transplanted.

Lace Flower - Episcia dianthiflora

Plantlets provide the easiest means of reproducing new plants. Baby Spider plants are often removed from the parent plant and set in water to increase the length of their already visible roots before potting them on. New plants can be reproduced by simply pining down the plantlet in a pot of moist potting media and cutting it free from the parent plant once it is well rooted. Other plants reproduced by plantlets include: Tolmiea menziesii (Piggy Back Plant); Episcia dianthiflora (Lace Flower); Duchesnea indica (Indian Strawberry); and Saxifraga sarmentosa (Mother of Thousands, Strawberry Begonia). The small plantlets that form on the edges of leaves like Kalanchoe daigremontianum produce roots on their little plantlets and only need to be set on moist potting soil to start new plants.

Boston Fern - Nephrolepis exaltata

Another houseplant that produces new plants from runners is Nephrolepis exaltata bostoniensis (Boston Fern). Simply pin down the wiry runners (leave attached to the parent plant) onto pots of moist soil in early spring and wait until the new plants take root, at which time the runners can then be cut away. If you reproduce more plants than you need, friends are often happy to accept them.